ronaldweinland.info Tutorials LAPTOP MOTHERBOARD REPAIR TUTORIAL PDF

LAPTOP MOTHERBOARD REPAIR TUTORIAL PDF

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Laptop Repair Complete Guide page ii TABLE OF CONTENTS: Identifying Components On The Laptops Motherboard Motherboard Flex Issue Discussion. then fix battery if not solved then reverse the polarity(+ -) of battery start then Ram pins of laptop: laptop ram pins; , and pins DDR (desktop The basic computer parts are the motherboard, processor, RAM, hard drive, video . Your Laptop is indeed your companion, especially when you're on the go.


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Laptop Motherboard Repair - Download as PDF File .pdf), Text File .txt) or read Tutorials Chip Level ronaldweinland.infook ronaldweinland.info Step By Step Tutorials. Laptop Chip Level Repair Laptop Repair Complete Guide; Including Motherboard The Laptop Repair Workbook: An Introduction to Troubleshooting and. "Expert In Laptop Motherboard Repair: Step By Step Motherboard Power Problems ". #Need help?-download in pdf,user manual,ebook,blue.

So the signal is very important for a laptop mainboard to working properly. The timing sequence is important, and must need to follow. If one of the step missing or incorrect timing, it will cause the mainboard not working. Even the markets have many brands laptop, but all or most of them are just using the Intel or AMD platform chipset only. So the same chipset is using the same timing sequence to work. And then we can just learn these two main chipset timing sequence, we can handle and repair the laptop easily.

The Cd Starts XP install will be different than Windows 7 install. With XP, it is a little lessgraphical and will ask you more questions than will Windows 7. In a Windows 7 install, you willstart by choosing Custom install. I never ever recommend doing an Upgrade of any version of OSinstall… simply not needed. Follow through the prompts and until you get to the screen showing thehard drive partitions.

Here you will make a decision to wipe the entire hard drive clean or to savecertain partitions or partial partitions. If you need to save DATA from the previous Operating System install, then you can leave allpartitions as they are, even if the Windows 7 operating system is an upgrade to what was previouslyon the drive like XP or Vista. Note thatupon completion of the new operating system, that Windows.

Here you will also need to choose what operating system you are installing if using a multi installcd , and you will choose what kernel the OS will run, whether you will use a 32 bit OS or a 64 bitOS. Again, most pirated OS installs will eventually encounter this issue. Assuming you have completed the windows CD install of the Operating System, I will nowdiscuss what goes on after the completed install.

Most OEM Operating System install discs will include most of the correct drivers needed foryour Laptop, and will load and install them upon the initial install of the Windows OS. Though, mostof the time you will be left with numerous drivers that did not get installed and it will be your job tocorrectly install them. The wonderful thing about the majority of the laptops is that it will not harm the operating systemif the incorrect driver is attempted to install, rather, it will deny the install with a caption showing theerror in incompatibility.

Even if the incorrect driver is installed, it will usually warn you uponreboot, that there is a problem, or you will get a pop up error explaining that the driver installed isnot compatible. You simply uninstall the bad driver or software to correct the issue and continue ontrying other related drivers. Hopefully you have done as I stated earlier and saved internet drivers toallow yourself to easily reinstall them.

Next, you will be allowed tochoose your Laptops model number and series number. There will usually be a list to choose from oran Auto Detect feature on that Web Page.

Once at your Drivers Web Page, you can see the list of allyour drivers such as Ethernet, Chipset, Audio, Wi-Fi, BIOS, etc… Download one or all of them, and if needed, you might have to flip through the different operatingsystem versions to find all the drivers… there will be a place somewhere on that page to change whatoperating system version the drivers are for… If installing from a USB device, make sure that you set the BIOSsetting to allow the laptop to boot to that USB device first.

Iwill teach you this way because there is a general rhythm to the placement of the screws and differenttypes used. With all laptops, you will start the disassembling by flipping the laptop over to its bottom side. Removing the battery is the first thing you will do. Now you will start with removing all the screws. You will start at the rear of the laptop wheremost batteries are located most, not all….

Start right in the battery bay and remove all the screwsinside it. Here you will find smaller screws usually 2 to 8 of them, and typically they are silver orblack in color — usually being silver.

Also in some battery bays you will have keyboard securingscrews, these will be removed also at this time. If you like, you can save the screws in one big pile,or you can separate them by size. If your specific battery is not located at the rear ofthe laptop, you still will remove it, though it will probably not have any screws in its empty bay ifthere are any, remove all of them.

Next you will remove all of the screws at the rear corners of the laptop. Typically they will use 1to 3 on each side. These will be the longest screws used on your laptop, the far corner screws will bethe longest — sometimes being thicker too, then, the ones further inward will usually be a little shorter.

Look for any screws at the Hinge Cap area, as some laptops will use 1 or 2per hinge cap to secure the cap to the base, remove them. While still at the back side of the laptop,look for any securing riser screws. Riser screws are found in areas like the VGA Serial Port or aPrinter Port, look on each side of that port, there will sometimes be riser screws. Remove them usingneedle nosed pliers. Other extension ports on the rear and sides of the laptop will have riser screwsthat need removing and some will be removed with a micro sized flat head screwdriver.

Some ofthese riser screws can be left in and still allow for complete removal of all parts, but if you are notsure, you should remove them. You can now remove any case covers that exist on the laptop in front of you. The photo on theprevious page shows 1 main cover that will cover all accessible components, some laptops use justone, and some will separate them and use 2 to 4 separate covers.

Remove all of them regardless. Note that some laptops will use extra long or extra short screws to secure the covers and if you thinkyou will have trouble remembering the placement of these upon reassembling, then place the screwsfor each separate cover inside that cover and set the covers aside with their screws on them.

Afterremoving these covers, you will remove the components inside their bays. These will include the. A caddie will wrap the drive or willcover one side of the drive then will be secured with small thick screws usually 2 to 4.

Use the installed pull tab on the hard drive toeither slide or pull the hard drive away from the laptop. Some hard drives will be secured to thelaptop and some will not. Once the hard drive is removed, look in the empty hard drive bay for anyscrews there. Remove any screws in that bay. Next part to remove is any Wi-Fi Card and antenna wires. You will typically find the Wirelesscard on the bottom side of the laptop.

Most models will allow you to leave this card installed andwill not hinder the disassembly process. The Wi-Fi antenna cables are what you want to remove…You will disconnect the 2 or more antenna wires and un-route them from the case track. Thesewires will typically run up to the upper-side of the motherboard and you need to allow them to bepulled away from the upper side by loosening them and untracking them on the underside.

Remove thecard also if needed. Continue on removing the bottom base screws, all along the front of the laptop still on the bottomside , usually there are 4 to 6 in the front, sometimes a sticker or rubber plug is hiding the screw, youwill remove any blocking tab and remove the screw.

Since I mentioned these imprinted icons, I will now elaborate on them and their use. If you lookclosely at the bottom of the laptop, you will see Icons near some of the screw holes. Typically theRAM has an Icon, the Wi-Fi will also have an icon, the hard drive will have an Icon, the keyboardscrew locations will have an icon, and the cd drive locking hole will have an icon.

It is also commonfor a Screw length guide to be located somewhere on the underside of the laptop, either imprinteddirectly into the plastic, or printed onto a sticker. Once you have removed the screw that secures the optical drive in place you will need to slide it. To do this, you can usually just grab the edge of the drives faceplate and gentlypull it outward. Some laptops will not be so easy and you will need a plastic pry tool to pull itoutward use a guitar pick. Once the drive is removed, you will look for any screws on the empty bay that would secure thelower base to the upper palm rest… some laptops will use 2 to 4 screws here.

Another thing to check while still on the bottom side of the laptop is whether the Fan and Heatsink assembly needs to be removed prior to motherboard removal.

And one hidden in theWi-Fi bay, both screws are silver in color and need to be removed. Take a minute to look for anyhidden accessible screws on the underside of the laptop, removing them all, then double check all theopen bays on the underside for remaining screws, like the hard drive bay where it is common to place1 to 4 screws there.

So start the upper half disassembly by removing the hingecaps using a micro size flat head screwdriver or using a plastic pry tool recommended. The photo above showsyou where the hidden 2 screws are on the Gateway Ma3 and Ma7 that secure the keyboard to thebase. Removing this strip can sometimes be a little tricky, Dell makes it easier by addinga pry access area on the right side of the strip, you stick your pry tool in it and pull upward to unsnapthe strip of plastic.

Most of these strips will be snapped on and you will need to pull outward whileslightly pulling up and down on the area you are unsnapping to release the tab locks. Note that some laptops like the Toshibaalso have a thin plastic snap strip just above the keyboard that need removing prior to removing hingecaps or keyboard. To remove these, ensure all bottom side screws are removed, then, use a plastic pry tool or amicro flat head screwdriver.

Start in the center of the thin plastic strip and right where the keyboard. Other models like the Compaq Presario will have a rectangular piece that completely surroundsthe keyboard, and in order to remove the keyboard, you will need to unsnap this part and set aside. You must be very careful when removing or unsnapping any part on the palm rest area because itcould have wires, ribbon cables connected to it and they are extremely fragile. This Presario has aribbon cable on the rectangular piece discussed here and it is located on the upper bar of the piece,which travels under the keyboard and plugs into the motherboard.

Then you can now also remove the rectangular keyboard frame and set aside. The Above Photo shows the most common keyboard ribbon cable motherboard connectionlocking tab port. Use your Pry tool to gently pull the left and right locking tabs upward away from theport. You will now be able to slide the cable out.

Keyboards will sometimes have securing screws at the top and will need to be removed. These are smaller screws than what you will find on the underside of the laptop. Some laptops willuse locking tabs instead of screws and the photo shows these tabs slide up and down to lock andunlock the keyboard in place. Another way some manufacturers secure the keyboard is by using springloaded tabs that protrude from above the keyboard and will extend over the keyboards upper tab.

Torelease the keyboard from these you will need a plastic pry tool or a micro size flat head screwdriverto depress the spring loaded tabs usually 4 of them and simultaneously use a secondary pry tool topull the keyboard upward and away from the spring loaded tab continuing to release all 4 tabs, thenlifting the top of the keyboard upward and away.

You need to pay attention here… When removing the media strip above the keyboard, youMUST be careful not to pull any cables in the process. I will give you an example. This HP DV laptops media strip has 2 fragile black ribbon cables attached to it and a fragilespeaker plug wire, these need to be disconnected before you can remove the part, and if you pull toaggressively you will damage the cables.

With these parts removed, you will first look for any screws in the empty keyboard bay on thepalm rest. There are typically 1 to 6 screws here, also look everywhere else on the upper half forscrews and remove all. The screen will get removed now as well.

You will unplug all wires orcables coming out of the screen. These will include the display cable, the Wi-Fi antenna wires, theWebcam cable, Microphone cable and any other that might be there.

The Wi-Fi cables will also beplaced in a track along the upper palm rest and you will un-track these and pull the ends through fromthe bottom side. Unscrew the display hinges to release the screen from the lower half of the laptopand it should now pull away freely.

Note that some laptops will attach the display cable differentlythe most common type of cable plug is one that pulls straight upward to release the cable, yet, othertypes will need to be pried outward from their casing port. You will need to determine yours andslowly unplug the cable. If it gives any resistance, you should double check to ensure you areremoving it correctly.

The ones that pull outward will always have a pulling plastic tab attached tothem to help you easily pull it apart. With the screen hopefully removed now, you will again lookover the entire palm rest for any remaining screws. Let me also say here that on models such as the HP dv you will have to remove the 2 Riserscrews that are located on the bottom side and exactly next to the Wireless card port, these need to be.

So look for strangely placed screw locations on boththe bottom and top before removing the palm rest. The typicaltouchpad ribbon cable connection port will be the slide locking tab type, and you will gently slideboth left and right sides of the locking tab upward to release the cable. Look around the exposed areas of the palm rest and carefully unplug any cables that you can see. Also untrack any remaining cables or wires away from the palm rest. You should now be ready toremove the palm rest from the lower base.

Most all palm rests will be snapped down to the base and to remove the palm rest you will needto unsnap all the tabs. To do this, you will use a guitar pick or similar plastic pry tool, starting at acorner and making your way around the entire palm rest to unsnap all the locking tabs.

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You shouldnow be able to pull the palm rest away from the bottom base of the laptop. You will be left with thebottom base and motherboard. Some Sony Vaio and Toshiba laptops have reversed this process and you will be removing thebottom base first, as the motherboard is attached to the palm rest. You should now have the bottom base and motherboard left over to disassemble, or the oppositeand you have the palm rest and motherboard left, this process will be the same for either, so I willjust refer to the bottom base method and you can use that in the same fashion to remove themotherboard from palm rest.

Now, with the bottom base in front of you, you will disconnect any remaining wires or cables thathinder the removal of the motherboard. You can remove any screws securing the motherboard to thebase. These screws will usually be marked on the motherboard with either a number or a symbol. Ifnot, you can use a marker to draw an x over the hole to remind yourself that it needs to have asecuring screw upon reassembly of the laptop. Some laptops will have mini boards or daughter boards attached to them that will also need to beremoved or detached from the motherboard to complete the removal process.

Once you think you have removed all the retaining screws, you can attempt to remove themotherboard from the base. Start this process by slightly lifting up on any given corner.

I will usuallystart near the area opposite from the onboard headphone jack port or volume knob. I pull upwardslightly then outward making sure to pull any components like the audio out ports, or the VGA or. Be careful here as you candamage the ports or plugs by pulling to far on the motherboard.

The Motherboard should lift right out, if it does not, do not panichere, simply go through the top and bottom again and pinpoint the location that it is stuck in and locatethe retaining screw.

You should be able to determine where the location is that is keeping themotherboard from removal just by lifting up on the board and finding the area that is still stuck to thebase. Finally, remove the motherboard and set aside, you are done with the removal, you can removethe fan and heat sink assembly now if still attached.

Chapter 5Laptop Screen Disassembly Instructions Most screens can be disassembled without removing them from the bottom base, but some modelswill not allow removal of the front bezel without first removing the screen away from the base. A lot of the newer laptops will have fewer screws used and more snaps.

They will also useflat — hidden screw covers that are thick sticker tab covers and not the typical rubber shoe screwcover. Use a razor blade or extremely thin plastic tool to pry the screw covers away from the bezelmaking sure not to scratch the bezel or not to ruin the screw cover. Once all the screws are removed, 2 to 8 , you can remove the front bezel from the rear lid. This does not just lift right off now… it will be snapped onto the rear panel and you will need toun-snap all the locking tabs all the way around the screen.

You will start this process using a guitar pick or similar tool and start at the upper right corner ofthe screen. Wedge the pick between the bezel and the rear panel and pry towards the front — pryingaway from each other, you will eventually unsnap the nearest snapping tab then continue around thelid.

I have found it easier if you slightly bend the area you are unsnapping inward toward the center ofthe screen and the locking panel tab will release easier. When you get to the bottom of the screen front bezel it can sometimes be tricky to remove thisarea.

This area will sometimes also have double sided tape securing the 2 pieces front and back together, and you will need to pull on the bottom bezel piece while lifting in an upward motion torelease the piece.

The way I do it is I will loosen the top of the bezel, then, I will go down each side. Take a look at the hinge area, some laptops are built so that the front bezelcurves around and under the hinge, so if you are removing the bezel without first removing the screenand hinges, you will have to bend the bezel outward and then upward to pull it away from the hinges.

It is a bit tricky but with practice it gets easy. Also note that certainmodels like DELL will have a hinge extension piece that extends into the hinge cover. So if you areremoving the bezel without first removing the screen away from the laptop, you will need to pull thisextension piece out of the hinge area, do this carefully but you will be able to with some patience…Hopefully you have removed the front bezel, I will now move on.

You should have the screen in front of you, the hinges and hinge rails should still be connected. You will first want to remove the retaining screws that secure the screen side rails to the screen. These side rails are almost always directly connected to the hinges. Typically there are 2 to 4 screwson both sides of the screen, magnetize your Micro sized Phillips head screwdriver and remove allscrews on both sides of the screen, set aside.

Some hinge rails will also have screws at the top that you will be removing and on the bottom youwill remove to allow the screen to be removed. I will typically leave the bottom screws — securingthe hinge to the lid — unscrewed, and I will pull the screen away from the rear lid the only tricky partdoing it this way is the bottom — side rail screw, it can be difficult to remove this one withoutloosening or removing the bottom hinge screws.

If able to, unplug the display cable wire set thatruns to the power inverter. Grab the top center of the Display Screen and pull it forward to lie it flat face down in front ofthe lid. Note that this screen will rest on the palm rest if you are doing this without removing thescreen from the laptop bottom base… You have the screen face down so that you can detach the display cable from the rear side of thescreen. All Display cables will have a piece of Pull Tab Tape attached to them.

Some display cables will also have a rectangularmetal wire pull tab with a blue, white or black plastic pull tab attached. You will do the same withthese and grab the end tab pulling it downward to release the display cable from the plug port. Some cables will also have locking tabs on the left and right side. To release the cable, you willneed to depress both the left and right sides simultaneously while pulling the cable flat away notupward… Assuming you already unplugged the power inverter, set the screen aside and you will havecompleted the screen disassembly.

Any remaining parts will stay in place. Some screens will also have secondary horizontal support rails, remember their position whenreassembling and do not forget to reinstall them. Chapter 6Laptop Screen Types: Both are still consideredLCD Screens because they are. The Image to the screen is Liquid Crystal Display; it is only thelighting that will change for these 2 types. TheCCFL bulb is a thin glass tube with a protruding metal pliable rod on either side.

Wires are solderedto both ends of the bulb then attach to a plug that will plug into the power inverter… You will need tosolder the wires to the ends if you ever need to order a replacement bulb.

You can however usuallyfind replacement bulbs that come prewired with plugs also attached. You get the same size bulb asyour screen specs specify. When disassembling the screen, you will start by removing the power inverter if it is attached. You will notice that all screens are framed with a thin metal frame.

This helps to hold all the screenparts together it also helps by framing the front screen glass panel in and protects the glass edges fromharm.

You are going to use a Razor Blade here to help separate this metal frame from the rest of thescreen. This frame wraps from the front of the screen panel to the top of the panels edges all the wayaround the screen.

Most screens will have 1 or several pieces of tape that cover the frames edge. Youneed to run the razor blade edge between the seam of the screen frame and the aluminum bulb backingplate. To do this you will flip the screen to its back side and start at the top of the screen, running therazor from right to left. Be very careful not to cut the LCD bulb wires or scratch any of the screenpanels. The sides of the screen will usually have securing tape that you need to either peel away orcarefully cut to separate the front metal frame.

Once you have cleared any securing tape, you will now be unsnapping the metal frame away fromthe screen panel. You will need a Plastic Pry Tool assist you in removing the frame.

The best toolwould a guitar pick. You need to start at the top.

It is imperative that you do start at the top of thescreen when removing the frame because you are not completely removing the frame you can, but itis not needed to change a bulb.

You will wedge the pick in between the seam of the frame and screen panel top side. Slightly pryupward near one of the imprinted tabs on the frame and push outward away from the front of thescreens glass panel.

Do not force this frame away or you might crack the screen.

Laptop Motherboard Repair: Causes & Signs of Motherboard Failure

Go Slow, HavePatience and you will easily be able to separate this frame… Slide the pick back and forth from theright side end of the frame to the left end side. You will now see an aluminum bulb guard on the rear upper side of the screen. This cansometimes have a micro sized screw on each side so look real close for one and remove it.

Now,right where the screw you just removed was, flip the screen to the side and parallel with the bulbguard screw will be a screw on the side of the screen again it will be a micro sized screw and willneed to be removed, the same goes for the opposite side of the screen, then again there might be asecond screw on the side of the screen towards the bottom of the side.

Some will have these andsome will not. The object now is to pull this metal bulb tray up and away from the screen to swap out the bulb. In the above photo, the red arrow shows the metal bulb tray and the blue arrow shows you will besliding it outward to remove, after you free the LCD wires.

Remove any tape that is securing the LCD bulb plug wires to the screen bottom side usually apiece of thin yellow tape.

You should now see a white tab that the wires track through. One wire is short the other long. The long wire willbe stuck to the thin horizontal plastic strip that runs along the top front of the screen, you simply willpull on the bulb wire to release it from the track along the front; it should peel right off.

You will use a fingernail or a plastic pry tool to push the metal bulb tray upward, start on oneside then slightly slide it a little bit, then go to the opposite side and slightly lift it, alternating until itis free from the screen. Be very careful when doing this otherwise the bulb will break though it isalready broke which is why you are changing it. Once you have the metal bulb guard free, set thescreen aside.

The bulb guard will have the bulb still inside its tray, there is actually a smaller metaltray inside the large metal tray, you can go ahead and separate these trays from one another now.

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Lookat both ends of the LCD bulb… this is typically where a bulb failure will occur at either end. Eitherthe wire will overheat and will break, or it will deteriorate the wire to a very fragile state so that ifyou were to wiggle it slightly it would snap and break. Look at the very ends of the bulb too, a faultybulb usually shows a blackish color at the end or both ends… this is due to internal bulb heat…which is why laptops can have color wash-outs pinks, oranges, reds to where the whole view of thescreen when illuminated has a pastel transparent colored tint to it, the tint can change colors as well,and you can sometimes hear a faint buzzing noise from the bulb.

Flickering of the light on and off isanother signal that the bulb is failing.

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Once again, look at the bulb ends you should have only the smaller metal bulb guard and the bulbin front of you , there are white rubber caps on each side covering the LCD bulb power posts.

You do not want tolose these caps… they are not glued on, they only slide on, and can easily fall off, so be verycautious. Notice here the placement of the bulb wires at both ends, notice that they do notprotrude straight out the back end of the bulb? So, when replacing the bulb, you will make sure the ends are properly recapped with the whitegrounding rubber caps and that the wires are placed facing the correct direction for reassembly.

If youneed to, take photos while you work to be able to remember assembly and reverse process. The Power inverter is the only part left for screen repairing. You can only do so much to repair the inverter if failure occurs. It is the part with thecopper wire wrapped all around it… a longrectangular shaped component with legs on both ends usually 2 to 3 on one side and 2 to 6 on theother — the legs attaching to contact pads on the inverter board.

You will need to use a soldering gunand flux paste. I will now show you how to order a replacement screen for the specific laptop in question. To replace a cracked screen or what ever the issue… you can order the screen by the modelnumber of the laptop, but I do not recommend doing so and it is the Lazy way to replace it. Not only is it not correct, it could harm the laptop by possibly installing an incompatible screen.

It will tell you the exact part number of the screen, it. The replacement screen part replacement number will almost always include the screens size in thenumber. Here is a typical screen part order number: Now, notice the TL and the A2 … this is very important that you replace with the sameexact numbers. There are quite a few different reasons why a laptop can have issues powering on.

The mostcommon would be a faulty DC Jack. Though other things like a faulty GPU, or incorrectly seatedRAM, or a blown motherboard component, a bad battery, a damaged hard drive, a short in the acadapter, or even liquid damage can as well… So you see; it is not only the power area that can failrendering the laptop unable to power on and stay powered on it can be a variety of different issues,and it will be up to you to do process of elimination testing to rule out all other possible problemsand pinpoint the exact component causing the issue.

I will go ahead and give you a few scenarios and then resolve the issues for you by showingyou how to do process of elimination testing. Okay, Now for the process of elimination testing to determine the issue. You will want to first check all the easiest things that you can, the easiest parts to access get looked atfirst. S tart by removing the battery. Plug the AC Adapter in and try powering on… If the same,continue on…Next, remove the RAM cover on the underside of the laptop some RAM slots are also situated underthe keyboard on the top side of the Motherboard; you will determine the location and reseat bothsticks.

Then attempt to power back on after reseating the RAM. Liquid damage to the hard drive is a common reason this canhappen… Liquid damage to the internal components can cause power redirection where the contactpads join and when this occurs, it will tell the motherboard to shut down to prevent further damage.

Ifthe laptop is still not powering on, continue with process of elimination testing…. Note here, that, you have ruled out the DC Jack simply because it is powering oninitially, then, shutting down. If the jack were faulty, you would get no power initially, or theshutdowns would be more sporadic and only occur when the cord or plug were moved slightly.

Screen Rear Cover This is the shell or lid of the laptop which is the back side of the laptops screen. These can need replacing from abuse to thehinges. The Rear Screen Cover is typically connected to both the hinges and the front bezel, though itcan crack and break if the hinges become loose or weak. Battery All laptops have a battery as it is the entire reasoning behind the Laptop itself and its portability ability.

Laptop batteries are made withdifferent strength or values. They also make batteries for the same model with different shapes tothem. For instance… A Dell original battery that was sold with the laptop rated at mAH.

The Laptop Repair Workbook PDF ( Pages)

Thatsame model has the ability to run a better battery; the mAH version, or better yet they offer a or higher… The higher the number, the longer the battery will hold a charge. Personally I prefer theBump addition batteries because they will lift the rear end of the laptop up in the air which will keepits base cooler. The cordend of the AC Adapter where it plugs into the wall outlet is the AC end of the cord, where voltsare travelling through to the center inverter power box.

In this inverter box, the AC current alternating current is converted to DC current direct current , then, travels to the plug tip. They are not really meant to be blasting music from at its highest level.

There aresome models, though, once again in the entertainment and gaming built series of laptops. They willadd subwoofers and tweeters and amplifiers to enhance the audio. It is where you connect an externalmicrophone or headphones or external speaker or even an external amplifier. Printer Port These used to be found on each and every laptop, but now you will rarely find these on your laptop as they are becoming outdated dueto the use of Wi-Fi, USB and Bluetooth.

There are a couple ways to start this process. You must be powered on to eject the optical drive tray or to insert cd into slot. If for some reason you can not get the laptop to boot to the CD, try using a different CD if able to. First, ensure the optical lens that is located directly onthe slide out tray is clean and free of dust or debris. Next you wouldcheck to see that the hard drive is working and that it is recognized.

It will be present in the BIOSsetup screen list, usually in the advanced section. Also you will need to determine if the operatingsystem you are installing is able to be installed on that specific laptop. Word Of Warning!!! The Cd Starts XP install will be different than Windows 7 install.

With XP, it is a little lessgraphical and will ask you more questions than will Windows 7. In a Windows 7 install, you willstart by choosing Custom install. I never ever recommend doing an Upgrade of any version of OSinstall… simply not needed. Follow through the prompts and until you get to the screen showing thehard drive partitions.

Here you will make a decision to wipe the entire hard drive clean or to savecertain partitions or partial partitions. If you need to save DATA from the previous Operating System install, then you can leave allpartitions as they are, even if the Windows 7 operating system is an upgrade to what was previouslyon the drive like XP or Vista.

Note thatupon completion of the new operating system, that Windows. Here you will also need to choose what operating system you are installing if using a multi installcd , and you will choose what kernel the OS will run, whether you will use a 32 bit OS or a 64 bitOS. Again, most pirated OS installs will eventually encounter this issue. Assuming you have completed the windows CD install of the Operating System, I will nowdiscuss what goes on after the completed install.

Most OEM Operating System install discs will include most of the correct drivers needed foryour Laptop, and will load and install them upon the initial install of the Windows OS. Though, mostof the time you will be left with numerous drivers that did not get installed and it will be your job tocorrectly install them. The wonderful thing about the majority of the laptops is that it will not harm the operating systemif the incorrect driver is attempted to install, rather, it will deny the install with a caption showing theerror in incompatibility.

Even if the incorrect driver is installed, it will usually warn you uponreboot, that there is a problem, or you will get a pop up error explaining that the driver installed isnot compatible. You simply uninstall the bad driver or software to correct the issue and continue ontrying other related drivers. Hopefully you have done as I stated earlier and saved internet drivers toallow yourself to easily reinstall them. Next, you will be allowed tochoose your Laptops model number and series number.

There will usually be a list to choose from oran Auto Detect feature on that Web Page. Once at your Drivers Web Page, you can see the list of allyour drivers such as Ethernet, Chipset, Audio, Wi-Fi, BIOS, etc… Download one or all of them, and if needed, you might have to flip through the different operatingsystem versions to find all the drivers… there will be a place somewhere on that page to change whatoperating system version the drivers are for… If installing from a USB device, make sure that you set the BIOSsetting to allow the laptop to boot to that USB device first.

Iwill teach you this way because there is a general rhythm to the placement of the screws and differenttypes used. With all laptops, you will start the disassembling by flipping the laptop over to its bottom side. Removing the battery is the first thing you will do. Now you will start with removing all the screws. You will start at the rear of the laptop wheremost batteries are located most, not all…. Start right in the battery bay and remove all the screwsinside it. Here you will find smaller screws usually 2 to 8 of them, and typically they are silver orblack in color — usually being silver.

Also in some battery bays you will have keyboard securingscrews, these will be removed also at this time. If you like, you can save the screws in one big pile,or you can separate them by size. If your specific battery is not located at the rear ofthe laptop, you still will remove it, though it will probably not have any screws in its empty bay ifthere are any, remove all of them.

Next you will remove all of the screws at the rear corners of the laptop. Typically they will use 1to 3 on each side. These will be the longest screws used on your laptop, the far corner screws will bethe longest — sometimes being thicker too, then, the ones further inward will usually be a little shorter. Look for any screws at the Hinge Cap area, as some laptops will use 1 or 2per hinge cap to secure the cap to the base, remove them.

While still at the back side of the laptop,look for any securing riser screws. Riser screws are found in areas like the VGA Serial Port or aPrinter Port, look on each side of that port, there will sometimes be riser screws. Remove them usingneedle nosed pliers. Other extension ports on the rear and sides of the laptop will have riser screwsthat need removing and some will be removed with a micro sized flat head screwdriver.

Some ofthese riser screws can be left in and still allow for complete removal of all parts, but if you are notsure, you should remove them. You can now remove any case covers that exist on the laptop in front of you. The photo on theprevious page shows 1 main cover that will cover all accessible components, some laptops use justone, and some will separate them and use 2 to 4 separate covers.

Remove all of them regardless. Note that some laptops will use extra long or extra short screws to secure the covers and if you thinkyou will have trouble remembering the placement of these upon reassembling, then place the screwsfor each separate cover inside that cover and set the covers aside with their screws on them. Afterremoving these covers, you will remove the components inside their bays. These will include the hard drive, the Wireless card, RAM, and similar.

A caddie will wrap the drive or willcover one side of the drive then will be secured with small thick screws usually 2 to 4. Use the installed pull tab on the hard drive toeither slide or pull the hard drive away from the laptop.

Some hard drives will be secured to thelaptop and some will not. Once the hard drive is removed, look in the empty hard drive bay for anyscrews there. Remove any screws in that bay.

Next part to remove is any Wi-Fi Card and antenna wires. You will typically find the Wirelesscard on the bottom side of the laptop. Most models will allow you to leave this card installed andwill not hinder the disassembly process. The Wi-Fi antenna cables are what you want to remove…You will disconnect the 2 or more antenna wires and un-route them from the case track. Thesewires will typically run up to the upper-side of the motherboard and you need to allow them to bepulled away from the upper side by loosening them and untracking them on the underside.

Remove thecard also if needed. Continue on removing the bottom base screws, all along the front of the laptop still on the bottomside , usually there are 4 to 6 in the front, sometimes a sticker or rubber plug is hiding the screw, youwill remove any blocking tab and remove the screw. Since I mentioned these imprinted icons, I will now elaborate on them and their use.

If you lookclosely at the bottom of the laptop, you will see Icons near some of the screw holes. Typically theRAM has an Icon, the Wi-Fi will also have an icon, the hard drive will have an Icon, the keyboardscrew locations will have an icon, and the cd drive locking hole will have an icon. It is also commonfor a Screw length guide to be located somewhere on the underside of the laptop, either imprinteddirectly into the plastic, or printed onto a sticker.

Once you have removed the screw that secures the optical drive in place you will need to slide it out and set it aside. To do this, you can usually just grab the edge of the drives faceplate and gentlypull it outward. Some laptops will not be so easy and you will need a plastic pry tool to pull itoutward use a guitar pick. Once the drive is removed, you will look for any screws on the empty bay that would secure thelower base to the upper palm rest… some laptops will use 2 to 4 screws here.

Another thing to check while still on the bottom side of the laptop is whether the Fan and Heatsink assembly needs to be removed prior to motherboard removal. And one hidden in theWi-Fi bay, both screws are silver in color and need to be removed. Take a minute to look for anyhidden accessible screws on the underside of the laptop, removing them all, then double check all theopen bays on the underside for remaining screws, like the hard drive bay where it is common to place1 to 4 screws there.

So start the upper half disassembly by removing the hingecaps using a micro size flat head screwdriver or using a plastic pry tool recommended. The photo above showsyou where the hidden 2 screws are on the Gateway Ma3 and Ma7 that secure the keyboard to thebase. Removing this strip can sometimes be a little tricky, Dell makes it easier by addinga pry access area on the right side of the strip, you stick your pry tool in it and pull upward to unsnapthe strip of plastic.

Most of these strips will be snapped on and you will need to pull outward whileslightly pulling up and down on the area you are unsnapping to release the tab locks. Note that some laptops like the Toshibaalso have a thin plastic snap strip just above the keyboard that need removing prior to removing hingecaps or keyboard.

To remove these, ensure all bottom side screws are removed, then, use a plastic pry tool or amicro flat head screwdriver. Other models like the Compaq Presario will have a rectangular piece that completely surroundsthe keyboard, and in order to remove the keyboard, you will need to unsnap this part and set aside.

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You must be very careful when removing or unsnapping any part on the palm rest area because itcould have wires, ribbon cables connected to it and they are extremely fragile. This Presario has aribbon cable on the rectangular piece discussed here and it is located on the upper bar of the piece,which travels under the keyboard and plugs into the motherboard.

Then you can now also remove the rectangular keyboard frame and set aside. The Above Photo shows the most common keyboard ribbon cable motherboard connectionlocking tab port. Use your Pry tool to gently pull the left and right locking tabs upward away from theport. You will now be able to slide the cable out. Keyboards will sometimes have securing screws at the top and will need to be removed. These are smaller screws than what you will find on the underside of the laptop.

Some laptops willuse locking tabs instead of screws and the photo shows these tabs slide up and down to lock andunlock the keyboard in place. Another way some manufacturers secure the keyboard is by using springloaded tabs that protrude from above the keyboard and will extend over the keyboards upper tab.

Torelease the keyboard from these you will need a plastic pry tool or a micro size flat head screwdriverto depress the spring loaded tabs usually 4 of them and simultaneously use a secondary pry tool topull the keyboard upward and away from the spring loaded tab continuing to release all 4 tabs, thenlifting the top of the keyboard upward and away. You need to pay attention here… When removing the media strip above the keyboard, youMUST be careful not to pull any cables in the process.

I will give you an example. This HP DV laptops media strip has 2 fragile black ribbon cables attached to it and a fragilespeaker plug wire, these need to be disconnected before you can remove the part, and if you pull toaggressively you will damage the cables. With these parts removed, you will first look for any screws in the empty keyboard bay on thepalm rest. There are typically 1 to 6 screws here, also look everywhere else on the upper half forscrews and remove all.

The screen will get removed now as well. You will unplug all wires orcables coming out of the screen. These will include the display cable, the Wi-Fi antenna wires, theWebcam cable, Microphone cable and any other that might be there. The Wi-Fi cables will also beplaced in a track along the upper palm rest and you will un-track these and pull the ends through fromthe bottom side.

Unscrew the display hinges to release the screen from the lower half of the laptopand it should now pull away freely. Note that some laptops will attach the display cable differentlythe most common type of cable plug is one that pulls straight upward to release the cable, yet, othertypes will need to be pried outward from their casing port.

You will need to determine yours andslowly unplug the cable. If it gives any resistance, you should double check to ensure you areremoving it correctly. The ones that pull outward will always have a pulling plastic tab attached tothem to help you easily pull it apart. With the screen hopefully removed now, you will again lookover the entire palm rest for any remaining screws. Let me also say here that on models such as the HP dv you will have to remove the 2 Riserscrews that are located on the bottom side and exactly next to the Wireless card port, these need to be removed before the palm rest can be removed.

So look for strangely placed screw locations on boththe bottom and top before removing the palm rest. The typicaltouchpad ribbon cable connection port will be the slide locking tab type, and you will gently slideboth left and right sides of the locking tab upward to release the cable.

Look around the exposed areas of the palm rest and carefully unplug any cables that you can see. Also untrack any remaining cables or wires away from the palm rest. You should now be ready toremove the palm rest from the lower base.

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Most all palm rests will be snapped down to the base and to remove the palm rest you will needto unsnap all the tabs. To do this, you will use a guitar pick or similar plastic pry tool, starting at acorner and making your way around the entire palm rest to unsnap all the locking tabs. You shouldnow be able to pull the palm rest away from the bottom base of the laptop.

You will be left with thebottom base and motherboard. Some Sony Vaio and Toshiba laptops have reversed this process and you will be removing thebottom base first, as the motherboard is attached to the palm rest. You should now have the bottom base and motherboard left over to disassemble, or the oppositeand you have the palm rest and motherboard left, this process will be the same for either, so I willjust refer to the bottom base method and you can use that in the same fashion to remove themotherboard from palm rest.

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Now, with the bottom base in front of you, you will disconnect any remaining wires or cables thathinder the removal of the motherboard. You can remove any screws securing the motherboard to thebase. These screws will usually be marked on the motherboard with either a number or a symbol. Ifnot, you can use a marker to draw an x over the hole to remind yourself that it needs to have asecuring screw upon reassembly of the laptop.

Some laptops will have mini boards or daughter boards attached to them that will also need to beremoved or detached from the motherboard to complete the removal process. Once you think you have removed all the retaining screws, you can attempt to remove themotherboard from the base.

Start this process by slightly lifting up on any given corner. I will usuallystart near the area opposite from the onboard headphone jack port or volume knob. I pull upwardslightly then outward making sure to pull any components like the audio out ports, or the VGA or printer port away from the case shell as to not damage any parts when removing the motherboard.

Be careful here as you candamage the ports or plugs by pulling to far on the motherboard. The Motherboard should lift right out, if it does not, do not panichere, simply go through the top and bottom again and pinpoint the location that it is stuck in and locatethe retaining screw. You should be able to determine where the location is that is keeping themotherboard from removal just by lifting up on the board and finding the area that is still stuck to thebase. Finally, remove the motherboard and set aside, you are done with the removal, you can removethe fan and heat sink assembly now if still attached.

Chapter 5Laptop Screen Disassembly Instructions Most screens can be disassembled without removing them from the bottom base, but some modelswill not allow removal of the front bezel without first removing the screen away from the base.

A lot of the newer laptops will have fewer screws used and more snaps. They will also useflat — hidden screw covers that are thick sticker tab covers and not the typical rubber shoe screwcover. Use a razor blade or extremely thin plastic tool to pry the screw covers away from the bezelmaking sure not to scratch the bezel or not to ruin the screw cover. Once all the screws are removed, 2 to 8 , you can remove the front bezel from the rear lid. This does not just lift right off now… it will be snapped onto the rear panel and you will need toun-snap all the locking tabs all the way around the screen.

You will start this process using a guitar pick or similar tool and start at the upper right corner ofthe screen. Wedge the pick between the bezel and the rear panel and pry towards the front — pryingaway from each other, you will eventually unsnap the nearest snapping tab then continue around thelid. I have found it easier if you slightly bend the area you are unsnapping inward toward the center ofthe screen and the locking panel tab will release easier.

When you get to the bottom of the screen front bezel it can sometimes be tricky to remove thisarea. This area will sometimes also have double sided tape securing the 2 pieces front and back together, and you will need to pull on the bottom bezel piece while lifting in an upward motion torelease the piece.

The way I do it is I will loosen the top of the bezel, then, I will go down each side. Take a look at the hinge area, some laptops are built so that the front bezelcurves around and under the hinge, so if you are removing the bezel without first removing the screenand hinges, you will have to bend the bezel outward and then upward to pull it away from the hinges. It is a bit tricky but with practice it gets easy. Also note that certainmodels like DELL will have a hinge extension piece that extends into the hinge cover.

So if you areremoving the bezel without first removing the screen away from the laptop, you will need to pull thisextension piece out of the hinge area, do this carefully but you will be able to with some patience…Hopefully you have removed the front bezel, I will now move on.

You should have the screen in front of you, the hinges and hinge rails should still be connected. You will first want to remove the retaining screws that secure the screen side rails to the screen. These side rails are almost always directly connected to the hinges. Typically there are 2 to 4 screwson both sides of the screen, magnetize your Micro sized Phillips head screwdriver and remove allscrews on both sides of the screen, set aside.

Some hinge rails will also have screws at the top that you will be removing and on the bottom youwill remove to allow the screen to be removed. I will typically leave the bottom screws — securingthe hinge to the lid — unscrewed, and I will pull the screen away from the rear lid the only tricky partdoing it this way is the bottom — side rail screw, it can be difficult to remove this one withoutloosening or removing the bottom hinge screws. If able to, unplug the display cable wire set thatruns to the power inverter.

Grab the top center of the Display Screen and pull it forward to lie it flat face down in front ofthe lid. Note that this screen will rest on the palm rest if you are doing this without removing thescreen from the laptop bottom base… You have the screen face down so that you can detach the display cable from the rear side of thescreen.

All Display cables will have a piece of Pull Tab Tape attached to them. Some display cables will also have a rectangularmetal wire pull tab with a blue, white or black plastic pull tab attached. You will do the same withthese and grab the end tab pulling it downward to release the display cable from the plug port.

Some cables will also have locking tabs on the left and right side. To release the cable, you willneed to depress both the left and right sides simultaneously while pulling the cable flat away notupward… Assuming you already unplugged the power inverter, set the screen aside and you will havecompleted the screen disassembly. Any remaining parts will stay in place. Some screens will also have secondary horizontal support rails, remember their position whenreassembling and do not forget to reinstall them.

Both are still consideredLCD Screens because they are. The Image to the screen is Liquid Crystal Display; it is only thelighting that will change for these 2 types. TheCCFL bulb is a thin glass tube with a protruding metal pliable rod on either side.

Wires are solderedto both ends of the bulb then attach to a plug that will plug into the power inverter… You will need tosolder the wires to the ends if you ever need to order a replacement bulb.

You can however usuallyfind replacement bulbs that come prewired with plugs also attached. You get the same size bulb asyour screen specs specify. When disassembling the screen, you will start by removing the power inverter if it is attached.

You will notice that all screens are framed with a thin metal frame. This helps to hold all the screenparts together it also helps by framing the front screen glass panel in and protects the glass edges fromharm.

You are going to use a Razor Blade here to help separate this metal frame from the rest of thescreen. This frame wraps from the front of the screen panel to the top of the panels edges all the wayaround the screen. Most screens will have 1 or several pieces of tape that cover the frames edge. Youneed to run the razor blade edge between the seam of the screen frame and the aluminum bulb backingplate. To do this you will flip the screen to its back side and start at the top of the screen, running therazor from right to left.

Be very careful not to cut the LCD bulb wires or scratch any of the screenpanels. The sides of the screen will usually have securing tape that you need to either peel away orcarefully cut to separate the front metal frame. Once you have cleared any securing tape, you will now be unsnapping the metal frame away fromthe screen panel. You will need a Plastic Pry Tool assist you in removing the frame. The best toolwould a guitar pick.

You need to start at the top. It is imperative that you do start at the top of thescreen when removing the frame because you are not completely removing the frame you can, but itis not needed to change a bulb. You will wedge the pick in between the seam of the frame and screen panel top side. Slightly pryupward near one of the imprinted tabs on the frame and push outward away from the front of thescreens glass panel. Do not force this frame away or you might crack the screen.

Go Slow, HavePatience and you will easily be able to separate this frame… Slide the pick back and forth from theright side end of the frame to the left end side. You will now see an aluminum bulb guard on the rear upper side of the screen. This cansometimes have a micro sized screw on each side so look real close for one and remove it. Now,right where the screw you just removed was, flip the screen to the side and parallel with the bulbguard screw will be a screw on the side of the screen again it will be a micro sized screw and willneed to be removed, the same goes for the opposite side of the screen, then again there might be asecond screw on the side of the screen towards the bottom of the side.

Some will have these andsome will not. The object now is to pull this metal bulb tray up and away from the screen to swap out the bulb. In the above photo, the red arrow shows the metal bulb tray and the blue arrow shows you will besliding it outward to remove, after you free the LCD wires. Remove any tape that is securing the LCD bulb plug wires to the screen bottom side usually apiece of thin yellow tape.