Making Faces. Home · Making Faces Author: Kevyn Aucoin Start by pressing the button below! Report copyright / DMCA form · DOWNLOAD PDF. Read Making Faces PDF - by Kevyn Aucoin Little | America's preeminent makeup artist shares his secrets, explaining not only the basics of. This books (Making Faces [PDF]) Made by Kevyn Aucoin About Books none To Download Please Click.
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Learn how and when to remove this template message Lip coloring started to gain some popularity in 16th-century England. During the time of Queen Elizabeth I bright red lips and a stark white face became fashionable. Only upper class women and male actors wore makeup. It was considered brazen and uncouth to wear makeup. By the end of the 19th century, Guerlain , a French cosmetic company, began to manufacture lipstick. The first commercial lipstick had been invented in , by perfumers in Paris, France. It was covered in silk paper and made from deer tallow , castor oil , and beeswax.
By fashionable American women had come to consider lipstick acceptable, though an article in the New York Times advised on the need to apply it cautiously.
Women had to slide a tiny lever at the side of the tube with the edge of their fingernail to move the lipstick up to the top of the case,  although lipsticks in push-up metal containers had been available in Europe since As women started to wear lipstick for photographs, photography made lipstick acceptable among women. Lipstick was scarce during that time because some of the essential ingredients of lipstick, petroleum and castor oil , were unavailable.
Another form of lip color, a wax-free, semi-permanent liquid formula, was invented in the s by the Lip-Ink International company. Other companies have imitated the idea, putting out their own versions of long-lasting " lip stain " or "liquid lip color. Throughout the early 20th century, lipstick came in a limited number of shades.
Dark red lipstick was one of the most popular shades throughout the 19th and 20th century, especially in the s. Flappers wore lipstick to symbolize their independence. Lipstick was worn around the lips to form a " Cupid's bow ," inspired by actress Clara Bow. She inspired other companies to create a variety of lipstick shades.
Teenage girls believed that lipstick was a symbol of womanhood, yet adults saw it as an act of rebellion. Many Americans, especially immigrants, did not accept teenage girls wearing lipstick. Books and magazines also warned girls that wearing cosmetics could ruin their chances of popularity and a career.
The implication of these articles was that lipstick and rouge were for teen girls who acted very provocatively with men. Teen girls were discouraged from wearing cosmetics for fear that they would be mistaken for "loose" girls or prostitutes. A survey revealed that two-thirds of teenage girls wore lipstick.
Later, Max Factor created a popular lipstick color called Strawberry Meringue. Lipstick manufacturers began creating lipsticks in lavender , pale pink , white , and peach. Since parents generally frowned on teen girls wearing red lipstick, some teen girls began wearing pink and peach lipsticks, which became a trend.
Girls would apply white lipstick over pink lipstick or place under-eye concealer on their lips.
During that time, many lipsticks were either matte, sheer, or slightly shiny. Women who did not wear lipstick were suspected of mental illness or lesbianism. Rocker Marilyn Manson helped popularize dark lipsticks in alternative subcultures. Black lipstick became popular in the late s and into the s. In the s, black lipstick had been worn by actresses starring in horror films.
It became popular again due in part to punk and goth subcultures.
In the mids, so-called mood lipstick, akin to mood rings , was sold to adults by mainstream cosmetic companies. This type of lipstick changes colors after it is applied, based on changes in skin's pH that supposedly reflect the wearer's mood.
They had another resurgence in the very early 21st century, offered by inexpensive as well as more exclusive cosmetic lines, and color changing chemicals also appeared in lip gloss , such as Smashbox O-Gloss, and blush , such as Stila Custom Color Blush. In the s, lipstick colors became semi-matte.
Shades of brown were very popular. These shades were inspired by several shows, such as "Friends".
In the late s and into the 21st century, pearl shades became very popular. Lipsticks were no longer matte or semi-matte, they were shiny and contained several interference pearls. In , bright bold lip colors became trendy again with saturated colors such as hot pink, neon, and orange.
These lipsticks follow the general trend where "less is more". Examples of celebrities promoting this trend are Paris Hilton and Gigi Gorgeous. Its most common form comes in a tube, applied with an applicator wand.
Lipstick also has many variations including lip balms , glosses, crayons, pencils, liners, and stains. Balms and glosses tend to be more translucent and not as dark or vibrant. Some individuals opt to buying lip balms and glosses over lipstick, as they get a more hydrating feeling from it. Lipsticks may be made from several waxes such as beeswax , ozokerite and candelilla wax. Because of its high melting point , carnauba wax is a key ingredient in terms of strengthening the lipstick.
Various oils and fats are used in lipsticks, such as olive oil , mineral oil , cocoa butter , lanolin , and petrolatum. Lead and other trace metals are also found in many lipsticks.
We lugged the book home all oversize pages of it to commune in private with its thick, creamy paperstock full of wisdom about lip shapes, brow bleaching and false eyelashes.
We propped it against the bathroom sink as we mashed our fingers into our cheekbones, feeling for deep bone structure. We pored over close-ups of celebrity pores, eager to claim affinity with the actress or supermodel whose skin most matched our own.
They were special; the rest of us could only dream of possessing jawlines that ended in a point like valentines.
By the age of 11, I knew I wanted to be a makeup artist. Aucoin insisted it was a game anyone could play.
You just had to decide who you wanted to be that day. There was the Chanteuse, the Bombshell, the Gamine. Each was defined by a particular makeup application, and each came with her own vignette.
When Aucoin died at 40 of complications related to a pituitary brain tumor, I felt the pang of orphanhood, the kind you get when a mentoring force leaves the universe.
Yet 13 years later, his ideas are more in vogue than ever. Contouring, a method of chiseling the face with shadow and light that he helped pioneer, has become a craze, thanks to its patron saint, Kim Kardashian. Just last month, Kardashian sold out a 3,seat auditorium in Pasadena, Calif.