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Fuse F3, bridge BR2. Fuse F5. Used to power the general illumination. Fuse F4, bridge BR3. Used to power all the coils. If getting a voltage below the above value ranges, that associated bridge rectifier is probably bad and needs to be replaced.

If TP4 is out of limits, the transformer may need to be replaced! Often the metal clips that hold the fuses in place on the rectifier board fatigue, corrode, and turn brown in color. This can cause a bad connection with the fuse. These fuse clips need to be replaced! They have become hot and are acting like resistors, not connectors.

Also these clips can fatigue and not have a good "spring" action to them. This means the clips again don't make good contact with the fuse. There is no fix for this; just replace them! The high amp fuses on the rectifier board show this problem the most.

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These fuses will get hot the quickest, and can generate a lot of heat. Once the fuse clips get hot and discolor, they must be replaced to fix this problem. First Upgrade: 47 Light Bulbs instead of This "upgrade" is actually VERY important! Change ALL the playfield light bulbs from 44 to 47 bulbs. The 47 bulbs consume less power, and put less of a strain on the power supply's transformer, connectors, and bridge rectifier. Sounds ridiculous, but it's true.

The difference in amperage is very small, but with 75 of these lamps, it really adds up! Number 47 lamps are a mA 0. The difference between the two lamps is mA. If there are 75 of these bulbs, having 44's installed is like adding a 50 watt light bulb to the game.

The additional power consumption uses more produces more heat and strain on the connectors and plastic game parts. Note the Stern rectifier board is identical to Bally's AS model. This will make the power supply more reliable. Note that after making all these upgrades, one could use an older AS power supply in a game calling for the AS power supply they are pin compatible, except for an added pin to double up the switched lamps on connector J1.

However the whole power supply must be switched including the transformer , and not just the rectifier board. Not advisable to switch, but it can be done in a pinch if these modifications are made. Note female connector J1 will have on extra pin that will hang over the edge of the J1 male pins.

Replace ALL the. Chances are these header pins are brown.

Even if just slightly burnt brown , this means the pins are acting like small resistors. Replace them all with new pins. Sanding the pins and re-tinning them is only a short term fix. Sanding removes the protective plating on these pins, which means they will brown up again. Just replace all the pins and be done with it. When replacing the header pins they are also being re-soldered, which solves another common problem of cracked solder joints on these pins. Mod 2: adding a jumper from J to J on the solder side.

Note the convenient plated through holes were used for the wire. On the solder side of the rectifier board, add a jumper wire from J to J Note there are plated through holes in the circuit board that make this mod very easy. This adds additional area for the 7. Mod 3: adding a jumper from J to J on the solder side.

On the solder side, add a jumper from J to J Since there are no plated through holes here, solder the wire directly to the header pin and the circuit board trace. This adds additional area for the 43 vdc solenoid lines. Drill this hole exactly where shown in the picture below, which is to the left of the marking "J1".

Drill this hole exactly where shown in the picture below, which is to the left and above the marking "J3". NOTE: Drilling these two holes is optional. On rectifier board AS only , another hole above and next to the "J3" marking on the board was drilled. The drilled holes are optional the wires can also just wrap around the edge of the board. On the component side scrape the green solder mask off the surrounding ground trace which the hole s goes through. If no hole s were drilled, still scrape the green solder mask off the large ground trace, to the side of the header pins where the hole s would have been drilled.

Solder wire s to this trace and fed it through the drilled hole s. If no holes were drilled, the wire can instead be fed around the edge of the board. For AS only, solder the second wire to pins J,2,3,4 on the solder side of the board. This wire add additional ground area for the lamp driver ground. The J3 modification is only needed on rectifier board AS Desolder the three or two, if it is a AS rectifier board bridges from the bottom of the rectifier board.

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Mounting the larger 35 amp bridge on the component side of the AS rectifier board. The middle bridge must be mounted first! If it is a AS rectifier board with the three bridges , install a new 25 amp, volt or higher wire lead bridge in the middle position, on top of the rectifier board originally the bridges were soldered to the bottom of the board.

Do not solder the bridge in place yet. Add heat sinks to the bridges before installing them. These may be bought at Radio Shack part or AS Notice the "dog leg" bends in the power supply leads to allow these larger bridges to be used. AS The "dog leg" bends are less prevalent here because there are only two bridges to install on this rectifier board. Install the remaining bridge s either model rectifier board.

To install them, "dog leg" the bridges to get them to fit. It's Ok if the bridge's metal casing touch. Do not solder the bridges in place yet. Left: A top view of the newly installed bridges on a AS rectifier board. Right: A top view of the newly installed bridges on a AS rectifier board. Before soldering the bridges in place, it's a good idea to bolt a heat sink to the top of the bridge.

This is optional, but highly recommended see below for more details. After all the bridges are installed, and their placement is good, solder them in. Solder the bridge leads on both the front and back sides of the rectifier board, to ensure good contact. Make sure to install the new diodes with the band in the same direction! These diodes are used for the high voltage score displays , and are often heat damaged.

Check that resistor R2 25 ohms 5 watts is not damaged. Check its value with a multi-meter. This resistor gets quite warm during operation, and can crack. Replace if a value is seen outside 23 to 27 ohms. Check that the correct fuse values are installed in the rectifier board. When installing the rectifier board back onto its plastic standoffs, note the screws and the metal heat sink plate used to bolt the bridge rectifiers to the metal case are no longer needed. These may be discarded.

I bought my bridges, heat sinks, and heat sink compound at Radio Shack. The heat sinks are really designed for transistors, but they work well on the bridges too.

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Installing Heat Sinks on the Bridges. John Robertson recommended doing this, and I would agree it is a good idea. Bridges can fail from heat fatique. Installing a heat sink increases the surface area of the bridge, allowing it to cool easier. It really is a good idea as any bridge installed will get hot. Aluminum transistor heat sinks are available at Radio Shack part or They bolt right to the top of the bridges.

The model uses a screw not included. Make sure to buy some heat sink compound Radio Shack part too. This aids in the heat transfer from the bridge to the heat sink. It is required! Just spread a thin layer on the top of the bridge before bolting down the heat sink.

Get one heat sink per bridge. Testing rectifier board upgrade work on the bench. Just hook up volts to connector J2 pins 6 and 7, and the voltages can be tested at the test points. Here we're testing TP2. Testing Rectifier Board Upgrade Work. After doing all the previous rectifier board modifications, test your work right on the bench, without installing the power supply back into the game.

To do this requires only a power cord, and two alligator clip wires. Connect the two alligator clip wires to connector J2, pins 6 and 7 on the rectifier board.

Then connect the other end of each aligator clip to a volt power cord. When plugging the line cord into the wall, the power supply will be turned on. Then test the rectifier board's "test points" for proper voltages.

The voltages may be slightly different than previously dicussed above, since there is no load on the power supply. No load can cause voltages to vary somewhat. Connect the black negative lead of a DMM multi-meter to R1's lead closest to the fuses. This is approximately the readings that should be seen: TP1 AS : 6. TP1 AS : 8. If the voltages seen are drastically different than the above, check your work. Also check resistors R1 ohms and R2 25 ohms. Test your work with the power supply installed in the game.

Just hook up connector J2 only! Turn the game on and check the voltages as described above. Having the J1 and J3 connectors removed will isolate the power supply from the rest of the game.

Rectifier Board Fuses. Here is a list of the rectifier board fuses. This applies to all generations of Bally power supplies from to If powering on a game, and the fuse immediately blows, there's a good chance one of the bridge rectifiers is shorted.

Try replacing the fuse's associated bridge. Or just do the modification listed above which replaces the bridges with bigger models. F3 - BR2. F4 - BR3 check varistor on the rectifier board too. Used to power the coils. F5 - no bridge.

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Short in the 7. F6 - no bridge. Short in the main volt AC power circuit. Check the varistor and the line filter in the cabinet. Fuse F5 - General Illumination G. Fuse Woes. There isn't much to this circuit, so if fuse F5 blows, this usually means there is a shorted general illumination bulb or socket.

This is never a quick or easy fix - you'll have to do quite a bit of looking and eliminating to find the problem. First, a good idea is to purchase a clip-on circuit breaker. Instead of replacing the F5 fuse for each test "power on", the circuit breaker can be reset and reused.

This is great for G. Just clip the breaker onto the rectifier board's fuse clips with alligator test leads. A mini circuit breaker can be purchased from any lighting store. To issolate the G. Power up. If fuse blows, there is a short in the main cabinet G. If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J1 playfield from rectifier board, leaving J2 cabinet and J3 backbox connected. If fuse blows, there is a short in the backbox GI wiring.

If fuse doesn't blow, remove connector J3 backbox from rectifier board, leaving J2 cabinet and J1 playfield connected. If fuse blows, there is a short in the playfield GI wiring.

What ever plugs are left connected are the wiring sections being tested. If the short is in the cabinet wiring, this is easy to fix. Just examine the coin door lamps. If the backbox wiring is the problem, this too is fairly easy to examine. A very common problem here is the ground braid that connects the head to the backbox. This can bunch up and touch one of the lamp sockets on the back side of the insert display panel when the insert panel is closed.

Unfortunately the playfield G. Now that the offending section playfield!

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There are two G. Now find a strand either one , and de-solder one of the lead wires to the strand thus taking the strand out of circuit. If there is a double wire double green, orange, red, white on the strand, be sure to keep the double wire connected together once it's removed from the strand.

This lets other strands "downstream" continue to have power. The basic idea is to disconnect a strand, power up, watch the fuse or breaker , and repeat until you find the offending strand. The Playfield Solenoids Don't Work.

First thing to check is the under the playfield fuse might be blown. Next check fuse F4 on the power supply regulator board. Also check it's fuse clip is in good condition with good tension, and is not brown. Now check TP5 test point 5 on the power supply regulator board.

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A voltage of about 43 vdc should be seen. If no voltage at TP5, assume the bridge BR3 on this board is bad and replace it. This brown wire goes directly to the playfield flipper coils. A problem on this sound board or a bad connector there can cause problems. Now check the right side of R If still no voltage, there may be battery corrosion damage in this area of the MPU board. The power supply changed for all games Xenon and later.

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These diodes can become "leaky" they normally run somewhat hot. For games this age, these diodes should be replaced! The replacement diodes should be a 6A50 6 amp, 50 volt or higher diodes games Eight Ball Deluxe and later were fitted with this size diodes. Higher voltage diodes can be used too, like a 6A2 or 6A 6 amp, volt or even 6A4 6 amp volts. Radio Shack sells a decent replacement, part number Also, 1N or 1N diodes could be used, but this is not recommended!

The voltage regulator board and solenoid driver board takes the DC voltage from the power supply, and smoothes it out. It also has all the transistors that drive the solenoids. Capacitors are partly a mechanical device that wear out with time. When "leaky" the term used when a cap is worn out , they do not smooth the DC voltage properely. Believe me, it needs to be replaced!

Right: The bottom view of the C23 filter capacitor. This is about as bad as they get; this capacitor has developed a visible bubbled hole in it just above the positive red terminal! Filter caps are designed to last about 10 years. Replace the filter cap with a higher value than 11, mfd, and a higher voltage than 20 volts, if desired, but never lower values.

This capacitor is the correct size and well suited for this task. It is the perfect replacement but is somewhat expensive. I don't suggest going higher than 15, mfd though, because it puts unneccesary strain on the bridge rectifier from charging the capacitor when the game is turned on. A replacement 15, mfd at 20 volt cap for C Yes it's a bit too long, but the price was right!

Note the replacement date was written right on the capacitor. There is a design problem on the voltage regular and solenoid driver board's ground lines.

The ground comes from the power supply to the solenoid driver board, goes through the filter cap and voltage regulator, and then leaves the board through a connector and goes back to the power supply. It then turns around and comes back from the power supply, through the connectors, and back to the solenoid driver board. This puts unnecessary strain on the board's connectors and header pins.

It can also give unreliable game play. This takes the presure off the connectors, stopping pin 10 on J3 on the solenoid board from burning. Baby Pacman uses a unique version of these boards which is similar, but not exactly the same. Just like the ground line, this puts unnecessary strain on the board's connectors and header pins. To correct this problem, add a wire from TP1 to TP3. Jump these either on the solder or component side of the board.

In the picture above, I jumped them on the component side for clarity. But jumpering on the solder side looks a bit neater. This mod helps saves pins 13 to 25 on J3 on the solenoid board. Tying TP1 to TP3 will short the unregulated 12 volts to ground.

Left: On the solder side of a or later solenoid driver board, jump a wire from the negative lead of C23 to the trace directly below it. The Stern SDU solenoid regulator board, with the modifications.

Although the circuit is the same, the board layout is quite different. If any of these pins are even slightly brown, both the header pins and the connector pins should be replaced.

Yes, these two different generations of solenoid driver boards are interchangable. The differences between the two boards are minor. The only place that ground from the power supply is connected to logic ground is on the component side of the MPU board. This happens underneath the header pins at J4 pins 18, If the MPU board has been corroded in this area, the J4 header pins can be damaged.

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The solder joints for the pins can be cracked on J4 from plugging and unplugging the connector, giving a bad ground connection too. The solder side of a Bally MPU board. The last two pins 18,19 of connector J4 need to be jumped to the large ground trace. To ensure a good ground contact, add a short insulated jumper wire on the back solder side of the board. This jumper should go from J4 pins 18, 19 the last two pins on the connector to the ground plane along the edge of the MPU board.

On games such as Eight Ball Deluxe EBD , Bally used a foil covered cardboard as the ground plane in the backbox, behind the circuit boards.

This can cause a couple problems. First, the cardboard can warp and short to the back of the circuit boards. Also, the foil wrapped cardboard can cause an intermittent ground to the circuit boards. The intermittent ground can cause strange problems including score displays which flicker, and flipper that work intermittently. To fix this, run a wire daisy chain to one metal bracket on each of the backbox circuit boards.

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